CAUTION--Halloween bag

A quick project for a prize at the family Halloween party, using ideas from Jodi Kahn's amazing book, 'Simply Sublime Bags'. Check out her unique and creative no-sew plans for charming bags, using plastic, duct tape, staples, placemats and even carpet.

I backed the sections of caution tape with overlapped strips of duct tape, trimmed the piece to size, and stapled the seams and box corners, binding the seams with duct tape. The edge is trimmed with black ribbon from my mom's ribbon and trim stash. The single handle is scrounged webbing from an old backpack. A free project!
Happy Halloween!

Dollar Store Scarves

Last fall the dollar store had some soft and tempting eyelash yarn for a dollar a skein. I couldn't resist! Two skeins of black and two of red made two quick-to-knit scarves for the hat, glove, and scarf drive at my workplace. I should have picked up more yarn! Other hat and scarf projects are in the works, yarn picked up at thrift stores and rummage sales. Fun stuff!

Handbag Recycle--Doll Messenger Bag and Shoes

Fits 18-1/2 inch dolls

One more doll accessory recycle from those odd, but soft, dollar store handbags--read on for details on the messenger bag! The shoes were made from a commercial pattern, using the leftover scraps.

l. I took apart the purse, and removed the melted jewels, laying the main part flat.

2. I cut a 5" by 8-1/2" rectangle from the fancy side and rounded the corners on one short end. Cut a matching piece from the lining. Fold the straight, short end of the vinyl up 3-1/4",right sides together. Sew side seams using a 1/4" seam allowance. To box the corners, use a pin to mark the fold you just made, and fold and match this point against the side seam. Stitch a 1" seam across the corner. 3. Stitch the existing handle to the opening of the bag, right sides together, at the edges of the front. Tuck the handle down inside.

4. Stitch lining side seams, turn, and tuck down inside the purse, right sides together. Match curves and side seams. Pin and stitch around opening with 1/4" seam. Clip curves.

5. Pull lining out and slash along middle of fold, about 2-1/2". Turn bag through opening, then zigzag the slash closed.


6. Tuck lining down inside, and edge stitch around flap and opening. Done!

Scrap Buster Contest Entry--Tiny Quiet Quilt

(click image for a closer view!)

This little I-spy quilt project is a quiet and easy-to-carry matching game for my grand-kids. It contains two blocks each of 25 different print fabrics. It's only 9 1/2" by 11" and is made entirely of scraps, each block 3/4" square. Admittedly, I didn't use a great quantity of scraps, but I did use many different scraps!

'Scraps' around here might mean some very small bits. My example is my great-grandma, whose box of quilt scraps has gone through 4 generations and now resides at my house. She saved some pretty small bits! Some of my own (bigger!) scraps were just right to make the two 1- 1/4" squares needed. It was fun to view scrap fabrics with a different eye--many prints included small images that lend themselves to the project! Read on for directions.

1. Each little block is fussy-cut (cut out individually). Use your exact-o knife to make a little 3/4" square hole, centered in a 1- 1/4" square of card stock. This allows for 1/4" seam allowances. Use the window to center the motif, and use a pencil to mark the cutting lines around the square. Make 50 squares, 2 each of 25 different objects.
(Note: make several of these card stock squares and trade them out, as the pressure of your marking pencil wears away the card stock as you work. A sharp, but rather soft standard pencil works best--mechanical pencils are sharpest, but they tend to drag the fabric and distort the shape.)



2. Rotary cut 1 -1/2" strips of plain fabrics for the alternating squares, and cut them into 1- 1/2" squares. You will need 49 plain squares.
(Note: The smaller the cut pieces are, the more vital accurate seams become. Hand cut pieces are never as accurate as rotary cut pieces, so it's a good idea to use the more exact plain squares as a gauge for accuracy as you stitch.)

3. Deal out all the prepared pieces in 11 rows of 9 squares. Use a small rotary mat, so you can move it around as needed.


4. Stitch the pieces together into rows using careful 1/4"seam allowances, working with two rows at a time so you can chain the pieces through the sewing machine. Seam allowances are trimmed to 1/8" to avoid bulk, and pressed to the side
.

5.Next, the assembled rows are stitched together, and seam allowances trimmed and pressed to the side. Add two scrap borders, 1/2" and 1" wide, press, and cut out the back, and a piece of scrap flannel for batting--both the same size as the front.



Rather than use binding, I piped the outer edges using pink vintage piping from my mom's fabric-and-trim stash:

6. Layer the quilt back, right sides up, on the flannel 'batting' and pin around edges to avoid shifting. Place the piping with raw edges along the raw edges of the backing and batting, and stitch with a zipper foot along the stitching line of the piping. To start and stop, fold the ends of the piping into the seam allowance.



7. Layer the front and back with right sides together and pin. Stitch around the edges with your zipper foot, using the previous stitching line as a guide. Leave a 3-4" gap where you start and stop, to allow for turning. Trim corners, turn, and blind stitch the opening closed.



8. Machine quilt each seam line to add texture and interest. Have fun with your scraps--if your mom didn't start a collection, start yours now!

$1.00 Doll Backpack--a Dollar Store Recycle

An odd, but very soft and supple, handbag from the dollar store looked like just the thing for doll accessories. I changed a few seams and made the perfect backpack for Felicity to wear back to school!
Fits 18 1/2" dolls.
1. I removed the straps and lining and opened the side seams to lay the purse flat, then snipped off the melted jewels.
2. The purse was 5 1/2" wide and 2" deep. I re-cut one side to make the backpack size 4" wide by 2" deep, and restitched the sides.
3. I made a 1 " slit in the center of the upper edge, then hemmed the slit with a tiny hem. I stitched down a " hem all around the top for a casing, making it 4" high.
4. I used the existing 8 1/2" purse handles for the straps, stitching them next to each other at the center back, 1/2" from the finished top. The bottom ends were stitched 1" apart at center back, 3/4" above the bottom edge. Slightly longer straps would be even better!

5. To finish I threaded a black shoelace from my stash through the casing to draw the top closed. She's ready for school!

Dollar Doll Clothes--from underwear!!

Recognize the source of these cute small-scale prints for doll clothes? Yes, during a recent foray through the neighborhood dollar store we came across some quality women's underwear seconds and naturally asked ourselves what we might make from them. They are the foundation for a fabulous project--Dollar Doll Clothes! Read on for details!

*Fits 18-inch dolls, such as American Girls*


FABRIC CHOICE

l. Choose solids and small prints in nice quality fabric--some lycra content is essential. Either decorative elastic or fabric covered elastic are great for edges and details.
2. Watch for waist and leg elastic that are in scale, for details such as waistbands, straps, and trim.
3. Get the biggest pair possible--more fabric to work with!


INSTRUCTIONS IN BRIEF

l. You'll be cutting pattern pieces complete with elastic. Stretch elastic until the attached fabric is smooth, and pin out to a padded surface, such as your ironing board. Measure piece to be cut, or place pattern, and cut out the needed piece, being sure to snip the elastic LAST for best accuracy.

2. For straps, edges, and trims, carefully snip the elastic from the body of the fabric along its stitching line. Straight stitch or zigzag elastic on the front side of the fabric as desired.


3. As on many small items, it is easiest to finish hems first, then the vertical seams.


Let's get started!

You will need:

> Dollar store women's undies
> Matching thread
> Scraps of lace or trim
>Velcro
>Printed Patterns (see end of post!)


PANTS or SHORTS

or

BIKE SHORTS OR LEGGINGS

l. Cut through seam at crotch of undies so they will lay flat and form a lengthwise fold on your padded surface, aligning elastic edge. Stretch elastic until attached fabric is smooth and pin out into padded surface. Pin on the appropriate pattern piece (patterns at end of post) with the top pattern edge at the top of elastic. Be sure to place the pattern piece on the fold for bike shorts or leggings. Cut out, snipping elastic last. Use shorter cutting line for bike shorts.

2. Stitch back seam right sides together using 1/4" seam allowance and finish edges with zigzag stitch. For pants or shorts, stitch front seam. Fold seam allowances to the side at waistband and stitch down with small stitches to neaten.

3. Fold up 3/8" hem at each lower edge and straight stitch for hems, or zigzag lace scraps to lower edge to finish. (picture)

4. At inseam, match center front to center back seam and stitch from one hem to the other with 1/4" seam. Zigzag to finish seam. You're finished!

SOCKS

l. Make lengthwise fold in fabric, aligning elastic at top. Stretch elastic until the fabric lies flat and pin into padded surface. Place 'socks' pattern (see attachment) with straight edge at top of elastic an pin. Cut out two, snipping elastic last.

2. Fold right sides together on fold line, matching edges of elastic. Stitch curved seam using 1/4" seam allowance. Zigzag to finish.

3. Turn right side out and you're done!


UNDIES

l. Make lengthwise fold in fabric, aligning elastic at top. Stretch elastic until the fabric lies flat nd pin into padded surface. Place 'Undies' pattern piece (see attachment) on fold with waistline at top of elastic and pin. Cut, snipping elastic last.

2. Fold up 1/4" hem at lower edges and straight stitch.

3. Stitch back seam using 1/4" seam allowance, zigzag to finish.

4. Match dot at lower center front edge to lower edge of back seam. Tack front to back at dot. That's it!


HALTER TOP

l. Yes, the halter top is made from the front of a pair of bikinis, leg and waist trim intact. Cut across the narrow part and sides to form a halter top shape.


2. Trim away edging from another area to finish the cut edge.

3. Topstitch edging piece to raw edges, stretching as you sew, to finish raw edge and form fulness. Trim away two lengths of edging from another area for straps. Stitch to upper corners, then turn up and restitch to cover raw edges of elastic.

4. Fit on doll, marking back strap placement. Add a back closure of Velcro and stitch straps to back binding.


CAMISOLE

I'm including a camisole pattern I created.

l. Pin pattern piece on fold and cut out.
2. Edge stitch scraps of lace trim on center front, bottom edge, front and back neck edges, and around armholes.
3. Make straps of two pieces of lace trim zigzagged straight edges together, and cut to the required length. Place ends of straps under top corners of camisole and topstitch. Add a Velcro closure.

Other Thoughts:
-Try narrow elastic stretched and straight stitched to the wrong side of the fabric waistline for fulness--cute!
-Try trimmed-off elastic, stretched and topstitched for yoke, or maybe waistband.
-Try trimmed-off elastic used as yoke and straps--the top will still pull over the feet.

PATTERNS:

Dollar Doll Clothes

Underneath it all, I have to admit that this is the most fun I've had for $l.00 in a long time!

Something-from-Nothing Doll Dress

Felicity, my $1.00 yard sale doll, wears her new something-from-nothing dress. It's made from pieces in my 'doll clothes' fabric stash, where I tuck away bits that seem to lend themselves to dolls. The satin underdress and tulle are from my daughter's wedding dress, and the tiny bit of silver net and piece of sparkly tulle have been in the stash for years. I'm forced to admit I had to spend $1.50 for the silver trim, as nothing I had seemed to work. The pattern is from 'Sew the Storybook Wardrobe for 18" Dolls', by Joan Hinds, which I checked out from the public library--one of my favorite places!

Fall Projects

I've been working on a few projects for my fall seasonal decor! I love to make stack-and-whack quilt blocks--they are fun, easy, quick, and a great use for the fabric stash. Check out Bethany Reynolds' Stack and Whack books! I made two sets of five blocks in fall prints and stitched five together in a row for the runner, with borders and a flat piping insert and contrast binding to set off the blocks. I used the other five blocks to make Georgie Melot's fabulous quick serged pot holders from her wonderful book, Ready, Set, Serge. It's recommended! Great projects and a fun way to learn serger skills. The potholders literally take minutes each to make. I couldn't resist making piles more to share, from my fabric stash. Big fun!